SD> New to the Shelby Dodge Mailing List with an 88 Daytona

    From: Spaldam Danmspam
    Date: Tue Oct 20 01:38:22 98
 
 

     Hello, I'm new to this mailing list, and subscribed to it mainly for help
with my '88 Dodge Daytona Shelby Z with T-tops that I acquired about two
months ago.  I'm still getting it tooned up and working properly with a fairly
in depth tune up on it, but for the most part it's running strong and
efficient.  First I'd like to know where I can get all the specs for this car,
as well as how many of my specific car were manufactured.  I'm also looking for
the best, safest way to get the car to go a second and a half faster in the
quarter mile with minimal cost (I do plan to do the as much of the work as I
can my self).

     What I've gathered so far:

1) I'm planing on getting a new exhaust system that's 2.5" to 3" in diameter
with a high flow Cat. and Muffler (I may keep the stock exhaust up to the cat
to save money for now).  What I'm not sure of is what kind of muffler to use,
and I do need to use one along with the Cat.  I've heard that a glass-pack
type muffler or straight pipe will not be very loud with the cat and turbo,
but I have a friend that swears it will be very loud because of resonant
frequencies that exhausts make without a muffler to quite it.  Can anyone tell
me what kind of setups they have and how many decibels they are producing at
idle and at full throttle near redline?

2) New computer.  I'd like one that will control everything the way it needs to
be controled so I don't have to fabricate anything to be controled by myself.
I'd also like to keep most of my fuel efficiency while driving it nicely
around town and down the freeway to work, but wouldn't mind lossing some of
that efficiency while getting on it.  As it is now I seem to be getting close
to 30mpg no matter how I drive it.

3) Intake.  I'm thinking of getting a K&N coned air filter to replace the stock
filter, and some rubber hose to replaced the baffled ones comeing off the
inter cooler to the throttle body.  The questions I have about this is what to
do with the hoses comeing off the PCV valve, and how do I keep a maximum amount
of cooler outside air comeing in.

4) Get some more boost out of the turbo.  I understand the turbo I have can do
21psi, should be doing up to 15, and is doning around 12 or 13 (I need a better
boost gage for sure, and would like one that goes from 25 to 25).  I'd like it
to do 21psi if I can get it to do so safely, and I'm hopeing a new computer
will help me accomplish this. Would I need to also upgrade other parts of the
engine along with this such as injecters or sensors, and what are some good
computers to get for this car?  I'm also thinking of putting a heat shield
between the turbo and intake manifold.

5) Last, but possibly not least, Nitrous.  I'm thinking of a small 25hp kit,
and with the figures I've seen and done on my own it seems that with it's
cooling effects would actually give me 50hp as the car sits now.  I also
understand 50hp should be safe, but I want to be sure.

Now, any suggestions on how to best do all this to work together in the best
way it can, and still be a reliable safe daily driver?  I feel I've already
gotten a fair amount of information on how to do all this safely and to
hopefully get the gains I'm looking for with all this, and I'm fairly certain
that this is the direction I want to go.  I would still appreciate any
additional input, and additional ideas anyone might have for me.

Thanks.
     Spaldam
P.S. if you see a red 88 Daytona Shelby Z with t-tops and Utah license of
SPALDAM driveing around, be sure to wave.

Replies

Re: SD> New to the Shelby Dodge Mailing List with an 88 Daytona

    From: Gus
    Date: Tue Oct 20 06:43:30 98
 
 

Spaldam Danmspam wrote:
 
> 1) I'm planing on getting a new exhaust system that's 2.5" to 3" in diameter
> with a high flow Cat.

        Good idea!    2.5" inlet-outlet  universal cat = $59.99 plus shipping
from Don's Hot Rod Shop  1-800-888-8892.

>and Muffler (I may keep the stock exhaust up to the cat
> to save money for now).

        Walker Race Magnum 2.5" muffler from Summit Racing. Rather loud without
a cat, but rather nice with one...

>  What I'm not sure of is what kind of muffler to use,
> and I do need to use one along with the Cat.  I've heard that a glass-pack
> type muffler or straight pipe will not be very loud with the cat and turbo,
> but I have a friend that swears it will be very loud because of resonant
> frequencies that exhausts make without a muffler to quite it.  Can anyone tell
> me what kind of setups they have and how many decibels they are producing at
> idle and at full throttle near redline?

        Don't know the decibals; can only tell you that it's ignored by all
policemen, and makes you fast. You DID mention wanting to go fast?? ;)

>
> 2) New computer.  I'd like one that will control everything the way it needs to
> be controled so I don't have to fabricate anything to be controled by myself.

        BINGO!  ND's performance computers are on sale, RIGHT NOW! You better
hurry. The computer will raise your boost and give you more fuel,
aggressive timing, higher rpm cut out, and other goodies. That, along
with a free flow exhaust and a K&N, should take over a second off.
        Gus

SD> Re: New to the Shelby Dodge Mailing List with an 88 Daytona

    From: Todd & Cynthia Dietrich
    Date: Tue Oct 20 07:56:52 98
 
 

Spaldam Danmspam wrote:

>      Hello, I'm new to this mailing list, and subscribed to it mainly for help
> with my '88 Dodge Daytona Shelby Z with T-tops that I acquired about two
> months ago.

Welcome we hope your stay is an enjoyable one! ;)

> I'm still getting it tooned up and working properly with a fairly
> in depth tune up on it, but for the most part it's running strong and
> efficient.

Good idea. Any motor that is not properly tuned will not make good power.
Sometimes the smallest things (like sparkplugs) cause the biggest problems.

> First I'd like to know where I can get all the specs for this car,
> as well as how many of my specific car were manufactured.

Its out there somewhere.....like the "truth". ;)

> I'm also looking for
> the best, safest way to get the car to go a second and a half faster in the
> quarter mile with minimal cost (I do plan to do the as much of the work as I
> can my self).

Second and a half on a stock loaded out Shelby Z would mean low 14's.  Should not
be hard at all to achieve that.

> 1) I'm planing on getting a new exhaust system that's 2.5" to 3" in diameter
> with a high flow Cat. and Muffler (I may keep the stock exhaust up to the cat
> to save money for now).  What I'm not sure of is what kind of muffler to use,
> and I do need to use one along with the Cat.  I've heard that a glass-pack
> type muffler or straight pipe will not be very loud with the cat and turbo,
> but I have a friend that swears it will be very loud because of resonant
> frequencies that exhausts make without a muffler to quite it.  Can anyone tell
> me what kind of setups they have and how many decibels they are producing at
> idle and at full throttle near redline?

I would recommend at least a full 2.5 system. Also note that Jessie Buhr just
mentioned he will be taking orders for 3" mandrel bent systems for G-bodies.  Wait
and it will be worth your while! Mufflers, if you are concerned about noise, then I
would suggest ordering a Dynomax Super Turbo (or Summit Racing's Turbo muffler,
same thing half price).  If noise is not quite as important, then go with Dynomax
Race Magnum.  Since you plan on running a ocnverter, this really should not be all
that loud.

> 2) New computer.  I'd like one that will control everything the way it needs to
> be controled so I don't have to fabricate anything to be controled by myself.

I would highly recommend calling Neil Emiro.  He is having a sale, but on this you
will have to act quickly!  If you are wanting to "all out" I would suggest the 3bar
MAP and +40% injector program.  But if you want to stay relatively sane, then I
would suggest staying with your stock 2bar MAP and getting a program that will run
the +20% injectors.

> 3) Intake.  I'm thinking of getting a K&N coned air filter to replace the stock
> filter, and some rubber hose to replaced the baffled ones comeing off the
> inter cooler to the throttle body.  The questions I have about this is what to
> do with the hoses comeing off the PCV valve, and how do I keep a maximum amount
> of cooler outside air comeing in.

This too is a wise choice.  You can fabricate some hose/tubing that will allow you
to mount the filter low, so that it sits (at least partially) in a direct airflow.
I personally used an Akimoto filter that I have hooked a ram-air setup to the inner
funnel.  The key here is you can get creative, so do!

> 4) Get some more boost out of the turbo.  I understand the turbo I have can do
> 21psi, should be doing up to 15, and is doning around 12 or 13 (I need a better
> boost gage for sure, and would like one that goes from 25 to 25).  I'd like it
> to do 21psi if I can get it to do so safely, and I'm hopeing a new computer
> will help me accomplish this. Would I need to also upgrade other parts of the
> engine along with this such as injecters or sensors, and what are some good
> computers to get for this car?  I'm also thinking of putting a heat shield
> between the turbo and intake manifold.

I would not recommend running a stock turbo at 21psi very often or for very long
with out some SERIOUS improvement to your intercooler's efficiency.  It will
generate far too much heat for a stock intercooler.  Stick in the 15-18 range, you
will keep several things (including the turbo) in one piece a little longer that
way.

> 5) Last, but possibly not least, Nitrous.  I'm thinking of a small 25hp kit,
> and with the figures I've seen and done on my own it seems that with it's
> cooling effects would actually give me 50hp as the car sits now.  I also
> understand 50hp should be safe, but I want to be sure.

Not a bad idea, a "Cheater Kit".  But if you complete the steps you have already
outlined, you may not even need it! But hey who wouldn't want a spare 25-50HP
waiting for just the flip of a switch? ;)

> Now, any suggestions on how to best do all this to work together in the best
> way it can, and still be a reliable safe daily driver?  I feel I've already
> gotten a fair amount of information on how to do all this safely and to
> hopefully get the gains I'm looking for with all this, and I'm fairly certain
> that this is the direction I want to go.  I would still appreciate any
> additional input, and additional ideas anyone might have for me.

You certainly have done your homework.  You have addressed all the major areas and
have a very good plan to get that "land yacht" moving!

Later,
Todd Dietrich
'88 Shelby Z
Memphis, TN